What Is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 used in serums and moisturizers. It differs from nicotinic acid, another form of B3 often called niacin. This guide covers products applied to the skin; their evidence does not establish benefits for supplements or vitamin injections.
What Are the Benefits of Niacinamide?
Supporting the Skin Barrier
Niacinamide plays a role in supporting the skin’s protective barrier. Research has found increased skin lipids, including ceramides, and reduced moisture loss in dry skin. This does not make it a treatment for every rash or a suitable product for freshly treated skin.
Reducing Dark Spots and Uneven Skin Tone
Some niacinamide formulas may help dark spots look less noticeable. A small study using a 5% moisturizer found improvement after four weeks, but results depend on the cause of pigmentation and the product. Dark spots and redness are different concerns; neither guaranteed whitening nor rapid fading should be expected.
Oil Control and the Appearance of Pores
A 2% niacinamide moisturizer reduced some measures of facial oiliness in clinical studies, with different results between the groups studied. It may help oily skin, but permanent pore shrinking has not been established by this evidence.
Support for Acne-Prone Skin
A small trial of 4% nicotinamide gel found improvement in inflammatory acne. That result cannot be applied to every cosmetic serum. Persistent, painful or scarring acne needs an appropriate treatment plan rather than relying on niacinamide alone.
How to Use Niacinamide
Since skin tolerance varies, higher concentrations are not always necessary or suitable. The 2%, 4% and 5% formulas above were studied for different concerns; they do not establish one ideal strength for everyone.
- Test first: try a new product on a small area before applying it widely, and introduce one new product at a time.
- Follow the label: frequency and application order depend on the formula. A serum generally goes after cleansing and before moisturizer. If your moisturizer already contains niacinamide, an extra serum is not essential.
- Keep sun protection: for daily life in Thailand, use a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, plus shade and protective clothing. Reapply sunscreen when outdoors and after swimming or sweating. Niacinamide does not replace sunscreen.
Skin changes from niacinamide use typically occur gradually. Four weeks in one study is not a deadline for your skin; increasing the strength to chase faster results may be unhelpful.
Who Should Be Cautious?
Although niacinamide is generally considered gentle, some individuals may still experience irritation. Suitability depends on the whole formula. Avoid products containing an ingredient you know you are allergic to, and do not add new actives to an active rash or broken skin.
If a new cosmetic causes burning, itching, redness or swelling, wash it off gently and stop using that product. Seek medical advice if the reaction is severe, spreading or not settling. Our guide to inflamed skin and warning signs explains when to get help. Trouble breathing or swallowing, or swelling around the lips or eyes, requires immediate emergency care.
Common Questions
Can niacinamide be used with vitamin C or retinol?
Check the specific formulas and their directions rather than assuming a combination is always safe or always forbidden. When combining multiple actives, skin tolerance should be the primary consideration. Add products gradually and avoid layering more actives when your skin is irritated.
Can I use niacinamide during pregnancy?
Check the entire ingredient list, not just the word niacinamide. A combination product may contain retinol or another retinoid, which should be avoided during pregnancy. If you are unsure about a product, ask your obstetrician or dermatologist to review its ingredients.
References
- NIH Office of Dietary Supplements. Niacin: forms of vitamin B3.
- Tanno O, et al. Nicotinamide and the skin barrier. British Journal of Dermatology. 2000.
- Hakozaki T, et al. Niacinamide and cutaneous pigmentation. British Journal of Dermatology. 2002.
- Draelos ZD, et al. Effects of a 2% niacinamide moisturizer on facial oiliness. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy. 2006.
- Shalita AR, et al. Topical nicotinamide gel in inflammatory acne. International Journal of Dermatology. 1995.
- American Academy of Dermatology. Testing skin care products; application order.
- American Academy of Dermatology. Rash warning signs; pregnancy skin care; sunscreen guidance.